In the two or so years that I’ve accounting this column, I’ve developed recipes for tomato-braised beef and slow-roasted pork slathered in hoisin booze (and for abounding vegetarian dishes besides). Somehow, I’ve never aggregate a craven recipe, but after fail, whenever I present a compound for a meat added than chicken, I get this question: Can I accomplish this with chicken?

American home cooks like chicken. A lot. I get it — almost inexpensive, almost healthy, almost quick-cooking, craven is a go-to meat. At this point in the fall, summer vacations a abroad memory, academy canicule added accepted than novel, I ample we could all use a meal that can be fabricated in a flash, one that appearance a admired meat but isn’t arid or plain, one that rewards your basal effort.
I favor bone-in, skin-on craven thighs for this recipe. Not alone are they added aged than breasts, they additionally won’t dry out in the time it takes for the rice to cook. If you want, you can acting boneless, skin-on thighs; save the breast for addition recipe. This compound employs a abundant address for ensuring well-browned craven bark that doesn’t stick to the pan. You put the thighs, skin-side down, in a cold, ungreased pan, afresh about-face the calefaction to medium. This renders the fat from the bark boring and causes beneath splatters; back the bark is browned the thighs will absolution from the pan easily.
Of course, this compound has amaranthine variations — you could use onions, chiles and garlic for your aromatics instead of blooming onions and ginger, use all craven stock, abrogation out the miso broth, and activity a scattering of cilantro and disconnected cheese into the rice afore serving. Along those aforementioned lines, you could saute leeks and garlic in that rendered craven fat, use cremini or button mushrooms instead of shiitake and bung in a few branches of thyme, finishing with beeline craven broth.
Vegetarians can get in on the act, too, by affable the aromatics in olive oil (instead of the fat rendered from the chicken), swapping the craven banal for added miso borsch (or application attic milk), and application tofu instead of chicken. It’s a compound for chicken, yes, but additionally a arrangement for a adjustable supper you can acknowledgment to afresh and again, all abatement and winter long.
Jessica Battilana is a San Francisco freelance biographer and the columnist of “Repertoire: All the Recipes You Need.” Email: food@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @jbattilana
Miso Craven and Rice

Serves 4
2 pounds bone-in, skin-on craven thighs (about 4 thighs)
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons red or craven miso, divided
10 shiitake mushrooms, agilely sliced
4 blooming onions, agilely sliced

2 tablespoons minced beginning ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
1½ cups sushi rice
1½ cups low-sodium craven stock
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at allowance temperature
Instructions: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Season the craven thighs on both abandon with salt. In a barometer cup, barrel calm 2 tablespoons of the miso with ½ cup hot water. Set aside.
In a cold, ovenproof, high-sided frying pan with a lid (or a Dutch oven) abode the craven thighs skin-side bottomward in a distinct layer. About-face the calefaction to medium. Baker the thighs after axis or advancing until they cull abroad from the pan calmly and the bark is a abysmal nut brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Application tongs, about-face anniversary allotment (if it’s afraid and you’re angry it from the pan, delay addition minute and try again) and baker on the additional ancillary until browned, 3 to 4 account longer.
Transfer the craven to a belted basin and abate the calefaction to medium-low. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they’re angled and softened, about 3 minutes. Activity in the blooming onions, amber and garlic and cook, stirring, 2 account more.
Add the rice and activity to coat. Pour in the craven stock, afresh accord the miso admixture a activity and add. Increase the calefaction so the aqueous is boiling, afresh cull off the heat. Set the craven pieces on top of the rice, skin-side up, awning the pan and alteration to the oven. Bake until all of the aqueous has been captivated and the rice is tender, 25 to 30 minutes.
While the craven cooks, amalgamate the actual tablespoon of miso with the adulate in a baby basin and activity calm until homogeneous.
Uncover the pan, abolish the craven and set on a belted baking sheet, skin-side up. Preheat the broiler to aerial and align an oven arbor 3 inches from the heating element. Smear some of the miso assimilate anniversary allotment of chicken. Alteration to the broiler and bake until the miso is baking and the craven bark is crisp, about 2 account (watch carefully, because the miso can bake easily).

To serve, beanery some of the craven assimilate anniversary basin and top with a craven thigh.
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