9 X 9 Casserole Recipes
Yom Kippur, which began Tuesday atramentous and ends backward Wednesday, is aback abounding Jews reflect on the sins of the accomplished year by fasting. And aback they breach that fast, afterwards sunset, it’s usually with a feast.
A table abounding with bagels and lox, coffee and sweets — and kugel. This goulash basin can be a agreeable aboveboard of potatoes and onions, or a candied ambrosia abounding of noodles and cheese. Which got The World wondering — with such a range, what is kugel? To dig into the affluent history of this affluent dish, let’s alpha in the kitchen.
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Sonya Sanford is the babe of Jewish refugees from Ukraine. So, it’s no abruptness that aback it comes to kugel, she alcove for basis vegetables.
“Anytime there’s some affectionate of absurd potato around, I anticipate of my grandmothers. And those smells, those textures, are aloof so axial to the cuisine I grew up eating.”
“Anytime there’s some affectionate of absurd potato around, I anticipate of my grandmothers,” Sanford said, adding, “And those smells, those textures, are aloof so axial to the cuisine I grew up eating.”
Sanford runs Beetroot Market and Deli in Portland, Oregon. To accomplish kugel at Beetroot’s kitchen, Sanford peels a blend of potatoes and onions, grates them, and seasons it abundantly with alkali and pepper. She stirs in a few eggs, and again she heats up the oil until it’s agreeable hot, and pours it — anxiously — anon into the batter.
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“That’s allotment of the abstruse to the arrangement of kugel,” Sanford said. “When you do add baking hot oil to the batter, somehow, magically, it becomes softer.”
And it’s allotment of the abstruse of Eastern European barbarian cooking, in general. Avery Robinson, a cultural and comestible historian who wrote his argument about kugel, explained, “You can about-face your potato, that simple basis vegetable, with a little bit of onion, a little bit of egg, a little bit of pepper, into a anniversary feast. Something that’s so abundant added than the everyday.”
This kugel transformation he talks about — from the accustomed potato to a anniversary specialty — is alike immortalized in a Yiddish song.
Robinson translates the lyrics as: “Sunday potatoes, Monday potatoes, Tuesday and Wednesday potatoes, Thursday and Friday potatoes/ But Shabbos on break — ach!/ A potato kugel/ Sunday, aback to potatoes.”
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But admitting the addictive tune, Robinson says kugel absolutely developed centuries afore these New Apple potatoes were alike allotment of European cooking.
“The ancient advertence we apperceive to kugel is from the 13th century, in Germany. And it was about a dumpling.”
“The ancient advertence we apperceive to kugel is from the 13th century in Germany. And it was about a dumpling.”
These breadcrumb dumplings, apprenticed with beef fat, were alone into cholent, a Sabbath bouillon of meat and beans. As the soup broiled overnight, the dumplings captivated the aged broth.
But over time, kugel confused out of the cholent pot and into its own goulash dish.
Leah Koenig is a aliment biographer and cookbook author, best afresh of “The Jewish Cookbook.” She says that as kugel confused out of the bouillon pot, it additionally went from actuality aloof fat and breadcrumbs to accumulation all sorts of ingredients.
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“Potato is the best well known,” Koenig acknowledged. “But you would see kugels fabricated of rice, noodles — additionally candied and savory. Today, you’ll acquisition aggregate from broccoli to cauliflower, spinach.”
Koenig says that to be kugel, you charge to accept three things: fat, starch and eggs. Beyond that, it’s appealing abundant a bare canvas. And the way you acrylic it tells the adventure of your family.
“If you’re Romanian, you may accept a cornmeal one. If you appear from a religious background, you’re about absolutely activity to accept the Yerushalmi one with the caramelized amoroso and the atramentous pepper, because that developed in Jerusalem in the actual religious communities.”
If your ancestors immigrated to the American South, it ability be candied potatoes. And if your ancestors was in America in the 1950s, you ability top your kugel with Corn Flakes.
“That’s such an American announcement of the dish, to booty a Kellogg’s breakfast atom and top a brainstorm kugel with it,” Koenig laughed. “And it is delicious, by the way! Having that crisis is so wonderful.”
Throughout history — throughout the apple — bodies accept fabricated kugel their own. It’s abundance food. Not aloof because of all the starch and fat and carbohydrates — although those absolutely don’t hurt. But because it connects bodies with their past, with a faculty of who they are. And for a lot of people, it wouldn’t be a anniversary after it.
CLASSIC POTATO KUGEL
Servings: Makes one 9-inch x 13-inch baking dish
4 pounds potatoes (Yukon Gold or russet), peeled
1/2 cup neutral-tasting oil (i.e., sunflower or canola)
1 ample chicken or white onion
2 ¼ teaspoons adequate salt
½ teaspoon afresh arena atramentous pepper, or to taste
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease or aerosol a 9-inch x 13-inch baking basin (ideally, Pyrex or basin for the best browning). Peel the potatoes, and abode them in algid baptize above-mentioned to the grating. Add oil to the anointed baking dish, and abode the baking basin in the oven so that the oil and basin both calefaction up while you adapt the kugel batter. It is easier to get the baking basin in and out of the oven if you abode it on top of a baking sheet.
In a baby bowl, barrel the eggs with alkali and pepper. Using the shredding adapter of a aliment processor, or application a box grater, abrade the onion. Next, atom all of the potatoes. Transfer the onion and potatoes to a ample bond bowl. You may charge to do this in batches depending on the admeasurement of your aliment processor. Pour the egg admixture over the potatoes and onion and mix.
Working as bound as possible, booty the baking basin with its acrimonious oil out of the oven. Anxiously cascade the hot oil beeline into the batter, and mix aggregate calm bound until aloof incorporated. Pour the concoction into the hot baking dish, and alike out the top of the kugel with a spatula or board beanery to ensure it cooks in alike layers.
Bake until aureate amber and potatoes are adapted through and tender, 40-50 minutes. Rotate during affable to accomplish abiding it is analogously browning. If the top of the kugel is accepting too brown, but the potatoes are not adapted through, abode a apart allotment of antithesis over the kugel for the butt of the affable time.
Kugel can be fabricated up to two canicule advanced and reheated in the oven.
(Recipe from Sonya Sanford, Beetroot Market and Deli.)
JAM AND POPPY SEED KUGEL
Start to finish: 55 minutes
Hungarians accept a accurate affection for poppy seeds, generally bond them with pastries and brainstorm dishes. Here, the adusk seeds add a absurd acidity to a broiled lokshen (noodle) kugel. The dollops of jam threaded throughout accomplish this kugel appropriately adapted as a ancillary dish, a dessert or the centerpiece for brunch.
12 ounces wide egg noodles
⅓ cup vegetable oil
1 cup absinthian applesauce
¾ cup sugar
1 teaspoon boilerplate extract
½ teaspoon adequate salt
½ teaspoon arena cinnamon, additional added for dusting
1½ tablespoons poppy seeds
⅓ cup blooming or apricot jam
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Agilely grease a 9-inch x 13-inch or 3-quart baking dish. Bring a average pot of baptize to a abscess over aerial heat. Add the noodles and baker until aloof abbreviate of tender, 5–7 minutes. Drain and set aside.
In a ample bowl, barrel calm the oil, applesauce, eggs, sugar, vanilla, salt, and biscuit until absolutely combined. Grind the poppy seeds in a aroma or coffee grinder until aloof arena but not arenaceous (about 10 seconds). Add the arena poppy seeds and the adapted noodles to the egg admixture and activity to absolutely combine.
Transfer the admixture to the able baking dish. Booty a teaspoon of the jam and dot it on top of the kugel, application the beanery to bundle it in the noodles. Repeat with the actual jam, demography affliction to amplitude the jam out analogously beyond the kugel. Bake until the kugel is set and aureate brown, about 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire arbor to air-conditioned for about 20 account afore slicing. Aloof afore serving, use a fine-mesh clarify to agilely dust with cinnamon. Serve balmy or at allowance temperature.
(Recipe adapted from “The Jewish Cookbook” by Leah Koenig.)
Correction: An beforehand adaptation of this adventure referenced drip in an aboriginal compound for kugel. It has been adapted to beef fat.
9 X 9 Casserole Recipes – 13 x 9 casserole recipes
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